Machine polishing to permanently remove swirl marks, scratches, oxidation, and water spots. Before and after looks like two different cars.
Swirl marks, scratches, and water spots aren't in the paint itself — they're in the clear coat on top. Paint correction uses a machine polisher to remove a microscopic layer of clear coat, leveling out those defects until they're gone.
It's permanent. Unlike a wax or sealant that just fills the scratch temporarily, correction actually removes it. The paint depth you lose is measured in microns — a car can typically handle several rounds of correction over its lifetime.
The difference under direct sunlight is dramatic. Before correction, swirls look like a spider web across your paint. After, the paint has depth and clarity — it looks wet even when dry.
If you're planning on ceramic coating, correction must happen first. Any defect in the paint when you coat it is there permanently. Don't skip this step.
Full wash, clay bar, and iron fallout remover before any polishing. Polish works on clean paint — contamination under the pad causes scratches. This step never gets skipped.
Paint depth gauge measures clear coat thickness at multiple points across each panel. Tells us how much correction is safe and helps track progress during the job.
One panel done first to confirm product and pad selection. Checked under direct lighting before proceeding. Adjustments made if needed. No surprises later.
Heavy cutting compound removes deeper defects panel by panel. Slower and more aggressive than polish — does the heavy lifting. Results inspected under lighting after each panel.
Finishing polish refines the paint after compounding, maximizing gloss and removing any haze left by the compound. This is the stage that makes the paint look wet.
Paint sealant applied after correction to protect the work. If you're adding ceramic coating, this is when it happens instead — on clean, corrected, prepped paint.
Mobile service — Fox Valley, WI. Call or fill out the form.